2 estrellas michelin
El chef Anthony Genovese, curtido en varias escuelas italianas y cocinas de restaurantes, ofrece un menú sensorial, variado y con raíces quizás un poco desdibujadas.
Está presente en él la pasta (siempre tan al dente en Italia), así como el lomo de atún, una ostra deliciosamente aderezada en jugo de verduras, bizcocho de parasen, vieira y cordero, quizás demasiado poco jugoso con unas patatas suflé aromatizadas al romero deliciosas…
El menú se completa con un prepostre refrescante de naranja y cítricos y un sabroso postre de leches en texturas…
El problema no radica en la cocina ni el menú. Ni en el servicio ni la atención. Quizás empiezo a entender lo bien acostumbrados que estamos en España a comer bien y lo mucho que imponen 2 Estrellas Michelin, que nada tienen que ver con las otorgadas en otros países del mundo, como en este caso.
Menú excesivamente caro para los 10 pases que ofrece que muestra evolución y sensibilidad culinaria pero poco arraigo a los orígenes de la cocina italiana más tradicional.
Il Pagliaccio, Rome. After the hangover of Michelin Stars in Barcelona (so exciting and with such a huge amount of work going into each one of them), we head to this restaurant in the Italian capital, the only one in the city with 2 Michelin Stars. From the get-go, the incredibly discreet reception is surprising, with an almost-hidden door and a tiny entrance. The dining room is scarcely any bigger.
2 Michelin stars
Seasoned in various Italian schools and restaurant kitchens, chef Anthony Genovese offers a menu that is sensory, varied and with roots that are perhaps slightly blurred. It includes pasta (always so al dentein Italy), as well as tuna loin, an oyster that has been deliciously dressed with vegetable juice, a parmesan cake, scallop and lamb that is perhaps not quite juicy enough, served with a delicious potato sufléwith rosemary.
The menu is rounded off with a refreshing pre-dessert of orange and citrus and a flavorful dessert consisting of milk in different textures.
The problem is not with the food nor the menu. Nor with the service or the attentiveness. Perhaps I am starting to understand how accustomed we are to eating well in Spain and just how much the 2 Michelin Stars imply, which is a far cry from the ones given in other countries around the world, such as is the case with this restaurant.
A menu that is excessively expensive for the 10 courses it offers, which reflect evolution and culinary sensitivity, but very few roots in the most traditional origins of Italian cuisine.
